The Outer Banks

Atlantic Coastline along Nag's Head Island
The most popular tourist destinations in North Carolina are the Other Banks, a series of thin islands just off the coast that act as a barrier between the mainland and the Atlantic. Since most of the Outer Banks attractions close for the winter, I decided to make good use of a sunny fall weekend and explore the islands before everything shut down! Fortunately, the summer rush was long over, so I was actually able to enjoy the islands in relative peace (the only drawback was that the ocean was far too cold for any swimming.)

Bodie Island Light House
My first stop was the Bodie Island Light House, which was just a few miles south of my hotel. Surprisingly, the light house was practically deserted since it was both early in the morning and late in the fall. I had made an advanced reservation for the 9:30 tour to the top of the light house - which ended up being a private tour since I was the only person interested in climbing that early in the morning. Built in the early 1870s, the brick light house is 165 ft (50 m) tall and provides spectacular views of the island (which is narrow enough to allow great views of both the Atlantic coastline to the east and Roanoke Sound to the west.)

Cape Hatteras Light House
After my tour of the Bodie Island Light House, I continued driving 40 miles (65 km) south along the thin islands to the more famous Cape Hatteras Light House. Very similar to the Bodie Island Light House, Cape Hatteras was also built in the 1870s and shares the same black and white brick design. Slightly taller, the Cape Hatteras Light House is 210 ft (64 m) tall - making it the tallest brick lighthouse in the US. Sadly, after my private tour at the first lighthouse, the trip up Cape Hatteras Light House was a little disappointing. The Cape Hatteras Light House is strictly a self-guided tour, so I merely climbed to the top, took a few pictures, and headed back down.

Fortunately, I did at least enjoy a nice walk along the beach (with the lighthouse towering behind me.) Surprisingly, the beach was still a popular destination even in the cooler fall weather. There were a lot of people kitesurfing - though I'm amazed the didn't just blow away since the winds were so strong!

Wright Brothers Memorial
After my time at the beach, I backtracked north to Bodie Island for a quick lunch and some souvenir shopping. For my afternoon, I started at the Wright Brother National Memorial just south of Kitty Hawk, North Carolina. The sight of the first manned flight, the Wright Memorial proved to be better than expected (though that might be because it was Volunteer Appreciation Day and the $4 admission was waived.) The memorial site included a small museum on the history of flight, which was a little disappointing. It also included a reconstruction of the original Wright Brothers gliders, as well as their early base camp. However, the real highlight of the sight was the large airfield with stone markers showing the actual distant of the first four flights. Finishing the site was a massive stone monument atop the Kill Devil Hills, the launch point for the Wright Brothers' first experiments with gliders.

Elizabethan Gardens on Roanoke Island
To finish my afternoon, I left the Outer Banks and stopped at Roanoke Island - a small island nestled between the Outer Banks and the mainland. Roanoke Island was the site of the first English settlement in America (and the birthplace of Virginia Dare, the first English child born in America.) Sadly, the colonists mysteriously disappeared after one year, and no one knows exactly what became of the settlers. Sadly, because they disappeared, there is nothing left to see on the island. Fort Raleigh, the site where the settlers formed their camp is little more than forest today.

Fortunately, the people of Roanoke Island have commemorated the early settlers with a large Elizabethan Garden. The beautiful garden, which is designed in a style popular in 15th century Europe features statutes of Queen Elizabeth and Virginia Dare among the trees and flowered paths. I was actually very impressed at how colorful the garden was this late in the season; I believe the garden designers successfully planned a garden that would be beautiful in all season!

Biltmore Estate

The Biltmore Mansion
Located just south of Asheville, the Biltmore Estate, at 178,926 square feet (16,622 m²), is the largest privately-owned home in the United States. Built between 1889-1895, the house served as a mountain retreat for the Vanderbilt family, who had earned their money through a shipping and railroad empire. Although the mansion is still owned by the Vanderbilt family, it now mainly serves as a tourist site (and an expensive destination since admission cost $49 if purchased in advanced and $59 is purchased at the door!)

The Italian Garden on the Biltmore Estate
Sadly, photography is not allowed inside the house; however, it is a pleasant little self-guided tour (you would think that for $49 they could at least have tour guides...) Moving through the house, you see a variety of different rooms still decorated in the original style - and several of the rooms have priceless works of art dating from the 1400-1700s.

Walled Garden on the Biltmore Estate
After my time in the house (I only spent about an hour inside the house since I'm not one to stand and look at every single historic item), I walked through the gardens. Surprisingly, I found this to be my favorite part of the Biltmore Estates. The gardens on the Biltmore grounds were designed by Frederick Olmstead, the man who designed Central Park in New York City. Walking through the vast grounds, you almost feel like you are in a gigantic city park. (I guess unlimited wealth allows you to splurge on a team of gardeners.)

Bass Pond on the Biltmore Estate
After my time in the gardens, I walked to the estate's Bass Pond and saw a charming twig bridge and boathouse. On the way back to the mansion, I took the Woodland Trail, which lead me through a very natural forest (I felt as though I was back on a hike in the woods.) When I finally arrived back at the house, I caught the shuttle bus and headed to Antler Hill Village and Winery, which proved to be little more than a small petting zoo and a collection of restaurants. Overall, the Biltmore Estates proved to be an enjoyable destination (though perhaps not worth the $49.)

Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock
Since I made a weekend excursion to southwestern North Carolina, I wanted to make the most of my time and see as many sights as possible. Since I spent the morning at South Mountains State Park, I decided that Chimney Rock would be the perfect stop before stopping in Asheville for the night.

Stairs leading to Chimney Rock
Sadly, Chimney Rock is not the ideal place after a 9 mile (12 km) hike up the side of a mountain. Although you drive the majority of the way up the mountain, the final stretch is a endless series of stairs that lead higher, and higher, and higher! Fortunately, once you reach the "chimney" top, you are rewarded with a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and Lake Lure below.

View of Lake Lure
Surprisingly, Chimney Rock is not the end-point on the trail - instead, it continues up more and more stairs to several additional attractions. My favorite was a location known as "The Opera Box", which is merely a alcove in the mountainside that provides a wonderful view of Chimney Rock and the surrounding mountains. Further up the mountain, is an interesting rock called "Devil's Head" due to its pointed features that make it look demonic. Finally, after leaving the wooden steps and following a rough stone path, you arrive at the top (?) of the mountain for a view towards the west. Sadly, the western view was nowhere as appealing as the eastern view of Chimney Rock and Lake Lure.

South Mountains State Park

Jacob Branch Creek
All summer, I have wanted to head west to hike in the mountains of western North Carolina; unfortunately, this has been one of the wettest summers on record - so there have been few chances for weekend trips. Since I was finally blessed with a sunny weekend, I began my day at South Mountain State Park, which is located in the central part of the state (just north of Charlotte.) The park is best-known for the High Shoals Waterfall; however, it also has a number of excellent hiking trails.

High Shoals Falls
When I first entered the park, my plan was to make a 7.5 mile (12 km) loop hike using the High Shoal Falls Trail, Upper Falls Trail, Shinny Trail, and finishing along the Headquarter Trail. Surprisingly, the trail immediately proved a challenge! Although it passed along the picturesque Jacob Branch Creek, the trail quickly climbs the mountain through a series of steep stairs. Fortunately, there were several small waterfalls along the climb that made the trip more enjoyable. Eventually, the trail arrives at the High Shoals Fall, which was very impressive - though still not the end of the climb.

View of the Mountains from the Upper Falls Trail
After the trail climbs to the top of the cliff (above the High Shoals Fall), the Upper Falls Trail begins, and continues to climb through a thick pine forest. Fortunately, this portion of the trail doubles as a horse trail, so it is very wide (and easy to follow.) Sadly, there was little of interest along this segment (other than a single spot where the trees cleared to along a few of the surrounding mountains.) After a couple miles, my loop turned with the Shinny Trail, and continued along a much narrower path back down the mountain side.

Log "Bridge" along the Headquarters Trail
When I arrived at the bottom of the mountain, I again joined another stream as I worked my way back to the parking lot. Fortunately, the trail designer allowed for as much interaction with this stream as possible! The trail crossed over the stream at least four times - using stepping stones, a log bridge, and a couple small traditional bridges. Eventually, the trail joins the Headquarter Trail and continues to the parking lot.